Tuesday 13 April 2010

Kruger - Malelane to Maroela

It is always good to get back to the bush. Mountains are brilliant, the sea
is fun, the bush is ... well the bush, a living breathing unpredictable
vastness.

After a long hot and scenic drive from Dullstroom we eventually arrived at
the gates of the Kruger Nation Park, Malelane gate to be specific. We had
stopped off in Nelspruit (S25.47519 E30.96956) for supplies on our way and
saw the revamped football stadium for the ever nearer World Cup. Looks like
Nelspruit would be a great base for the early stages of the competition,
plenty in town and plenty of camping around and about.

Our first camp would be at Malelane Camp (S25.47633 E31.51265) just a few
kilometres from the gate, and a new camp for us. All we knew was that it was
small. It turned out to be a pretty camp, and pretty busy in both the
camping and the few huts, well it was the last weekend of the school Easter
holidays. However the camp was quiet, well inside the camp at least. Being
so close to the edge of the park and also the town of Malelane it was not
the most peaceful of places at times. The area outside the park is prime
sugar cane land with all the noise that goes with farming, and the town was
quite noisy at times with music drifting its way over on the wind every now
and then. All in all though the camp was a good stop but being busy we had
only a few spots to chose from. The first was nice and we had almost settled
in when we noticed a couple of dangling branches overhead swaying in the
breeze. Not good for tents, solar panels, or Mufasa! The second was a muddy
swamp. The last spot was in full sun and pretty hot that first afternoon,
but seeing as our power lead would not reach the nearest plug point the sun
was gratefully received by the solar panel. We had 2 pleasant nights there,
not even venturing out for a game drive as we had a long drive north thru
the park to the second camp. Our rest day was as usual taken up with
chilling, reading, and feet up.

Come the morning it was back into bush drive mode. Up with the larks to try
and get out of the gate as soon as possible after the 06h00 opening time. I
think we managed it by 06h15, not a bad effort considering we have to pack
everything away before we leave. We started off with the loop west and north
via Berg-en-Dal rest camp (S25.42696 E31.44987). As it turned out a slow but
fruitful drive. Elephant, Giraffe, White Rhino, and some endangered and
crazy looking Ground Hornbill. Oh and 3 Lions, 2 Male and 1 female. One male
an onlooker and the other two a mating pair. As usual the poor things were a
bit hampered with tourists being the busy southern part of the park and also
a Sunday. We eventually made it up to Skukuza rest camp (S24.98991
E31.59269) for a late breakfast at just gone 11h00 some 85km later. Knowing
we had quite a way to still go we had a quick bite and a cup of coffee
before heading off again. As always Skukuza was bursting at the seams, not
our favourite camp at all.

The rest of the drive was slow going at times, and not much to be seen. We
chatted to a passing Canadian couple who seemed disappointed not to have
seen much. Well that all changed. First off we came across another
endangered bird, the Saddle Billed Stork. What a pretty bird, goofy looking
but stunning. Must remember to send some pics to the EWT, just one of the
species of bird and animal they are tracking. THEN, not long after, Lion and
their kill, a very rank Giraffe corpse, not too fresh and very smelly. About
3 male and 7 female Lion we counted all very fat and sleepy. Two were still
picking at the rank remains, probably as they were to full to move away. As
with all Lion sightings it was zoo time, quite a few vehicles. We only
stayed for a few minutes when we managed to get thru. Some people just park
for ages blocking the way, stopping the traffic jam from moving and worst of
all hassling the poor cats. Sigh. THEN, just up the road, a sight that we
only saw as far as we know. A cat in the road ahead. We stopped a way back.
Binoculars up, WOW, a female Leopard and a tiny tiny cub!! She must have
been crossing the road and stopped for a pause and a breath. As soon as we
stopped, about 30m away, she picked the little chap up oh so carefully and
made her way off into the bush. No pics, but it lives upstairs in the memory
bank.

We eventually made it to Orpen rest camp (S24.47441 E31.39081) to book in at
just after 17h00, a long hack, but what a great day. Our final encounter on
the way was a large herd of Elephant, some cute youngsters. With booking in
formalities done we drove the short distance to Maroela camp (S24.45630
E31.39827). Again a small camp and only camping, no huts. We have a lovely
spot right at the fence, the electric cable just reaches the box to plug in.
A bit of shade for Mufasa. Tonight is our 3rd and last night here. Again we
have not ventured out as it is so nice just sitting watching birds and the
odd buck. As we are in the park for over 3 weeks we do not feel the need to
drive every day, relaxing and just listening to the sounds of the wild is as
good as a game drive sometimes. As with most camps there is a electric fence
and a security patrol at nights. Well, Spotted Hyena security patrol outside
the fence. People have a stupid tendency to chuck scraps over for them to
eat, which eventually leads to the poor animals being shot as the become a
danger. You would think the 'DO NOT FEED THE ANIMALS' signs on the fences
with the picture of a Hyena, and the threat of fines and jail would stop the
idiots but we have seen it in the past.

Last night was a clear starry night, absolutely beautiful. All day today we
have had over 15 little Dwarf Mongooses running around our feet chirping to
each other as they go. One almost took a fancy to my toes until I wiggled
them and it hopped away in fright. They were very intrigued with Mufasa.
Hopping up on the axles and even getting higher up and plodding around on
the rear fuel tank. I think they got the invite from one of the Squirrels
that has been with us since we got here, he had to be chased out of the rear
of the truck!! Tomorrow we have another 06h00 date with the road and a
shorter trip up to Balule camp just the satellite camp to Olifants rest
camp. This area is supposed to be good for Cheetah, Leopard and Lion,
fingers crossed!!!
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