Now the trouble with having to book up for Easter is that you end up with
nights to fill before you get there. Easy? No! Our stay up at Hogsback was
delightful. I went for a hike one morning with 3 dogs from the campsite for
company. They follow you everywhere. Sue always tells me off for making
friends with dogs on sites. Once befriended they sit with you all the time
and quite often expect you to feed them. Hey, I cant help it, I am a sucker
for a sad face with a wagging tail. Anyway, on the hike I tried to lose them
at one point but they soon found me a few minutes later, well 2 of them. The
oldest obviously gave up the chase and headed home. They probably know the
hiking trails inside and out. By the time we had made it back to camp they
looked ready for another lap.
So on leaving Hogsback we had to find 2 nights somewhere before the long
weekend. Where to go? East London (S32 58.977 E27 55.146) was on route as I
needed to buy an oil filter from Toyota so that I could get Mufasa's engine
oil changed at some point. That achieved and with the supply box restocked
with food we had to locate a good site for the 2 nights. The first option at
Nahoon (S32 59.128 E27 56.881) was not great. A community site, run down,
collapsed tents and caravans, and strangely we decided to move on. Our next
hope, Gonubie. After eventually finding the site, again a municipality site
but not too bad, we chose a pitch and settled in (S32 56.127 E28 01.689).
The place was due to be packed over Easter but there was room for us for 2
nights. Some of the pitches were pretty much on top of each other, and the
ablutions were old but functional. As it turned out it was a good choice.
Nice beach in spitting distance, oil change done in the town at Gonubie
Mechanical Services, and we probably had the best pitch on site. We had two
very pleasant nights there and just chilled out.
It was quite a drive to Port St Johns (S31 37.527 E29 32.807) especially in
the rain. We had checked to see if they could fit us in a night early but
they were full up. All in all it turned out well with a wet drive as at
least we weren't set up in camp getting wet. It felt as if we were back in
real Africa. The rolling hills down from Mthatha, African villages
everywhere with their round huts.
Its just a shame that the driving skills here are a tad on the crap side.
Well to be honest, probably some of the worst you will experience anywhere
in the world. Red lights, stop signs, no overtaking signs, blind corners,
just there as annoyances for people who seem to need to get to their
destination the day before yesterday. Yes we may amble along and not be in a
rush but surely if you have at least an ounce of survival instinct for
yourself let alone anyone else on the road you would be a bit more cautious.
We passed one really bad accident, car and bus. People slow down for a good
look, body bags on show for all to see, then put the pedal to the metal
again to hurry along to the next accident, probably their own. Oh and just
in case you are wondering, this is everyone, of all colours, in any vehicle
from car to truck. Sigh, can't seem to get my head around it. End of rant.
The site just outside Port St Johns we had booked was Cremorne Estates (S31
35.898 E29 31.894). Nestled in the hills on the banks of the Mzimvubu River
about 5 or 6 km from the sea. There was a bit of a mess up on arrival as
they tried to put us on a pitch that didn't exist, no electric and no water.
We pointed out the error of their ways, and were then allocated a proper
spot, and a nice one at that. Well it was the day we arrived, Friday,
anyway! The weather stayed moist for the whole day but cleared up for the
rest of the weekend.
Saturday came, beautiful morning, we sat and read our books and gazed up at
the rocky hills. We spent some time trying to locate the large and noisy
Trumpeter Hornbills that hid themselves away in the tree canopy on the side
of the hills, but eventually got to see them, nice birds. Our peace and
quiet was shattered come the afternoon. A group arrived in two cars. Set up
camp just across from us, and then the fun started. Music cranking out from
the car stereo, getting louder and louder. I walked over and asked them to
turn it down a bit, and they did, no probs. As the day grew older, and they
got drunker the volume crept up again. Come early evening I paid them
another polite visit and got a mouthful back. So I set the management on
them. Boy that was like throwing petrol on a fire to put it out. The abuse
that was hurled at me for 'terrorising' them all day, hmmm, I left the
management to it. The music was quieter, and thankfully they passed into a
drunken coma not too late.
The following morning the nice family next to them with two young kids
decided to leave a day early, had enough of the drunken behaviour and the
language. Shame, what is it with some people. This family had complained to
the management several times about it but didn't get much help - were told
'this is Africa'. Thankfully the 'delightful' group left that day, only
staying one night. Oh and not being funny but they were a religious lot,
can't see it myself, and beers at 08h00 in the morning? Perhaps when I was
18, but this was adults with young kids of their own. Apparently this was
not the only incident that day as another couple had to be shown the door
after they started fighting with each other, again they were probably not
exactly sober. Thankfully after that we had a very nice two more quiet days,
soaking up the sun and reading. I don't think I have read so much for years.
After all of the excitement of the Easter weekend we needed a nice quiet
spot and a rest. It all worked out quite well. Sue's Dad had been in the
Drakensberg for the long weekend using some timeshare but had to leave on
the Tuesday. So we felt obliged to use up the remaining 3 nights of the
booking! So off to Underberg and the Castleburn Lake Resort (S29 45.082 E29
17.958). A nice one bedroom apartment, food in the fridge for us to use up,
including some delicious prawns! It is a trout fishing place with some
smallish dams and a large lake, all set in the foothills of the southern end
of the Drakensberg mountains. There were walks around the lake, tennis
courts, putt-putt, a 'golf course', and canoes on the lake. All of which we
used. Tennis was interesting with neither of us having held a racquet for
years. The weather was stunning. Blue blue clear skies during the day, clear
clear starry nights, and the trees were all in Autumn colours, beautiful.
Thankfully there was a log fire in the apartment to keep the chill off. Once
again life had dealt us a savage blow!!
We only had a short hop to our next location, further up into the hills and
the KZN Wildlife campsite at Garden Castle(S29 44.767 E29 12.460). A small
site, 10 pitches, no electricity, and basic ablutions. Only us and another
lovely old couple in their caravan. Bliss. Shame about the miserable rude
staff at the reception. I think we were putting them out by being there.
Anyway, the fantastic weather continued and we had two long hikes up into
the mountains. The first to Pillar Cave, and the second to Sleeping Beauty
Cave. The nights were the darkest we have experienced on the trip, the stars
FANTASTIC. It was a bit chilly at night, but we were snug up in the tent. No
annoyances, no noise, no idiots to cope with. Just chillllllll. Our luck was
definitely in with the weather. The 2nd night was stormy with thunderstorms,
well it was everywhere around us for a while, but only a couple of small
drops on us. Then the skies and the stars returned. The day we left it was
cloudy and misty, and was forecast to be set for the next few days with a
cold front passing through. We had had almost a week up in the Drakensberg
and no rain, miracle. With bad weather set for a few days it was good
fortune again as our next stop was the Amanzimtoti Princes (S30 02.337 E30
52.990), Sue's brother Roy and family. Many thanks to them for putting up
with us and a great week spent there! And now, to the present, another stoke
of luck, or great planning. Sue's dad, her brother Mike and family, and
another timeshare apartment down the coast at Margate (S30 51.807 E30
21.803). We have a week here before we hit the road again on our own in
Mufasa. Oh by the way he is having a break from us too. We are hoping that
he is still safely parked up in a hangar at Durban airport, Roy works there,
and not on a boat to China or somewhere!!
As to where we head from here, I don't know except north and back eventually
to Johannesburg. And then? Ah, we have been thinking of new plans, not firm
yet!
Monday 27 April 2009
Monday 6 April 2009
Knysna, Tsitsikama Coast, Addo Elephant NP, and Hobbits
Yes, back at the keyboard again, and I think its going to be a big one,
that's if I can remember what we have been doing for the last 2 weeks. The
weather today is wet and misty, we are up in the clouds, and not a Hobbit to
be seen anywhere!!
Our peaceful stay at the Wilderness NP came to an end on the Tuesday and we
set off in search of a new adventure. After making a stop at 2 of the bird
hides in the Wilderness NP, we made the scenic drive along to Knysna. The
bird hides were great and the Malachite hide lived up to its name as a wee
little Malachite Kingfisher sat perched on a branch just a few feet in front
of us. I am sure the poor thing must have thought it was a famous movie star
the way that the other people in the hide were snapping away with their
cameras. Why is it that in today's world of digital cameras some people feel
the need to make the camera produce a loud digitised shutter sound every
time they hit the big button? It's a bit like vegetarian sausages and bacon,
just cant get my head around it! Anyway, after a while the wee little bird
had posed and signed enough autographs and made for safety, don't blame it.
Knysna sadly is one of those towns that is selling its soul to the
development of 2nd homes and holiday accommodation and all the hangers on
that goes with it. The demand for waterfront or island property is pushing
prices up to crazy levels. A 3 or 4 bedroom house with a view of the lagoon
comes in at least the R3M mark. There must be plenty of money around
somewhere. We found the caravan park that we had planned to stay at, Monk's
Holiday Park (S34 02.303 E23 03.881), a nice spot at the edge of the lagoon,
set-up camp and then took a walk into town to see what was happening. Our
aim was the waterfront development but somehow we managed to get lost, so
after asking in a shop for directions we made it and found the hotspot of
the Knysna rich and famous. Well there was enough money sitting in the water
with all the yachts and motor cruisers. So to blend in we found a drinking
establishment, had a drink or two, and did a spot of people watching. Apart
from the odd tourist here and there it was a bit of a ghost town although I
am sure the place rocks at the height of the season.
Suitably relaxed it was back to camp for dinner and a quiet night. Yes well
it would have been a quiet night if not for the barking dogs and the
thumping music coming from one of the world's many brain dead with a sound
system fit for a night club shoe horned into the boot of their passion
wagon. Knysna may not be the hotspot of entertainment for the youth of today
but surely there must be more to life than sitting in a petrol station
forecourt broadcasting your 'fab' music to all. A second day in town was
enough for us to see all we needed and feeling a bit disappointed it was
again time to move on.
Heading eventually for Nature's Valley we stopped of at Plettenberg Bay for
coffee and a stroll on the sand. Plett is quite a sleepy place and if not
for the lure of seeing dolphins and whales it would probably nod off into a
coma. The big jet boats that take the punters out in search of the dolphins
get thrust out into the waves at speed from their trailers by a tractor and
return just as fast dry landing back onto the sand. We forgot that last time
we were at Plett we had been one of the punters, must be getting old, both
of us had forgotten until we saw it all happening. After a quick detour to
Keurboomstrand to see if the camp site there was any good, crap ablutions,
we arrived at Nature's Valley NP (S33 58.235 E23 33.828). A nice secluded
Sanparks site in the trees just inland from the sea. The site was very quiet
and we found a nice spot before heading to the beach. Again our memory was
jogged, yep been here before. What a lovely beach. Sand as far as the eye
can see, and hardly a soul around. With the weekend approaching whether it
would stay that way or not was another matter.
With the arrival of Friday the next day we realised that things were going
to get a lot busier. A huge marquee was being set-up for the arrival of a
church group and by evening the site was pretty busy. We had a great morning
on the beach soaking up the rays. The electric in camp had mysteriously gone
off in the morning and the rumour was that while setting up the marquee one
of the huge tent spikes that had been bashed into the ground had gone
through a cable, who knows. Didn't worry us.
Leaving the weekenders to it we moved onto the Storms River site (S34 01.416
E23 53.406) not too far along the coast in the Tsitsikama NP. We had wanted
to stay there, a great spot with tent pitches right on the rocks at the sea,
but the cost of it had put us off. Again one of Sanparks crazy pricing
schemes with combinations of tent or caravan pitches with or without power
or views. Eventually we decided to bite the bullet and stump up the cash. I
think it is probably the most expensive site in all of Sanparks network.
Only problem, what looked like an overland truck set-up next to us. As we
had arrived early in the day we just sat, read books, and enjoyed the view
that we had paid for. The people on the overland tour had been out scuba
diving somewhere and returned late afternoon and thankfully seemed a quiet
bunch. Well most of them were. Some chose to get very drunk and make a right
noise until late into the night. We weren't amused and neither were several
of the other people on the tour. Not the first time we had had the pleasure
of drunken overlanders on our travels and unfortunately probably not our
last! To top off a bad night, I had the pleasure of a cold shower in the
morning as there was no hot water in the men's ablution block! All part of
the fun when you are on the road, and at least for us it doesn't spoil our
trip as we have so much time, but for people just away for the weekend it
isn't great.
Not wishing to outstay our welcome, or rather not wanting to pay for another
expensive night, we were on the move again. With Jeffreys Bay in our sights,
the surfers paradise, we made our way along the N2. Taking a detour via
Kareedouw in search of a slower drive and the promise of scenic view and
tractors according to the sign post we took longer to get there. As for the
scenery, not the best, and not a tractor to be seen anywhere! We drove out
to Cape St Francis before hitting J Bay and found the surfers after passing
thru the town and its enormous residential areas. A nice spot to have lunch,
and watch young and old doing their stuff in the waves. Onto J Bay and
somewhere to stay for the night. The town, bland, the caravan park
expensive. Thankfully a bit further along at Kabeljous the caravan park (S34
00.840 E24 55.653) was cheap, very nice, and just off the beach.
We had been working towards our first forced booking on our trip, Addo
Elephant NP. The place seems to be maxed out all the time so advanced
booking was necessary. Heading to Port Elizabeth first to get food and fuel
we arrived at the park. Seeing that the fuel comes from Port Elizabeth you
would think it would be cheaper, wrong. Anyway, on our previous adventure
down this way we had made a day trip to Addo. Yes we actually remember that!
The reason, it had been bloody hot, over 40c. We had almost wilted away.
This time being closer to winter we hoped for a cooler time. On arriving at
the main rest camp (S33 26.642 E25 44.700) it was 39c in the shade, oh. The
wind was hot and so were we. The camp at Addo is very nice, big gravel
pitches as separated by hedges, very Caravan Club! A swim was needed and
thankfully the rest camp pool was very nice and unsurprisingly busy.
Tuesday morning arrived, so did some cooler weather, and we were up with the
larks at daybreak to get out into the park. We had a good morning drive, 2
male Lions, Elephants, plenty of different buck, Warthogs, and Jackals. Our
routine for the next two mornings at Addo would be much the same. Morning
drive, afternoon snooze. The game area is not huge and we had covered it all
in two mornings, even crawling along in 2nd gear. By the time we were
returning to base at around 11h00 the day trippers were filling the roads
out. With Elephants being the main draw of the park you would be unlucky not
to see any. Even if not out on a drive there is the huge waterhole back at
camp to sit and watch either by day or night as it is gently lit up. Sadly
there is always a down side to busy camp sites. People with music and people
with unhealthy obsessions for washing their 4x4 as it had a bit of dust on
it. Sue, unknown to me at the time, told one German couple to turn their
music down. They asked if she had a baby to which she said 'no, we come here
to get away from it all' and was told 'if you want to get away from it all
you should go to a hotel not a caravan park'. Sue pointed out that this was
actually a NP just in case they had missed the signs. Thursday morning was
really different, cold and misty. At one waterhole, Carol's Rest, the calls
of the Jackals looming out of the mist was really eerie, but fantastic.
The afternoon snoozes never really happened as we were franticly trying to
sort out accommodation for Easter. We eventually found somewhere. As with
several places we have tried to book in advance as we tour around they
require payment to confirm the booking. Not easy sometimes when the only
options are depositing money to a bank account, no banks around, or sending
credit card details via email, are they mad? We had heard of another camp at
Addo that offered camping, Mvubu up in the NW of the park. So we booked 2
nights there at the Addo reception. Pure inspiration. We left the main camp
on Friday and after a not too long but dusty drive arrived at Mvubu (S33
20.457 E25 21.623). Again the temp had soared to mid thirties. Now yet again
the Sanparks pricing gets weird. Addo Main Rest Camp with facilities and
electric, R130. Mvubu Camp with no electric and a single rustic shower and a
flush loo, R70. Thankfully they have not adopted the pricing schemes of
other African countries where a bush camp with nothing costs twice as much
as normal! What a great place. Middle of nowhere. Drive to the small town of
Kirkwood and head into the hills. Just us and nature. A nice viewing deck at
the river, no hippos sadly as they are up river at Darlington Lake, with the
expensive private lodge!
What did we do for our 2 nights there, nowt. Enjoyed. Saturday morning we
went for a walk. There might be the odd Leopard hiding somewhere in the
hills, we just saw Kudu, Warthog, and Bushbuck. It is amazing that in a
noisy 4x4 these animals seemed relaxed, on foot at quite a distance even
being quiet they get skittish. Later on Saturday we had company at the site
as 2 families turned up, we knew they were coming so that was ok. Thankfully
they were quiet although they did manage to take over the place.
It was a shame to leave there yesterday but we will be back sometime that's
for sure. Passing back thru the main Addo park we aimed for Grahamstown,
another of the places Sue wanted to see. Disappointment again. A nice old
town that has not been ruined but has changed, cheap shops and hardware
stores in the main squares of the town. Diesel, ouch, after a price hike
during the week. As for the caravan park, closed, being refurbished. Due to
open in a weeks time according to the security guard. Whether that is an
African week, i.e. month, year, next decade. So our only choice was to
continue to Hogsback up in the Amatola Mountains, and another of Sue's
places to see, gulp. We had booked into a place called 'Away with the
Fairies', no comments please, as from Monday night. It was a long drive and
I think the owners of the place are definitely 'Away with the Fairies'!!
Backpackers, no camping where we could park Mufasa using the roof top tent
even though we had asked on booking if we could. So to Swallowtails Estate
it was, more expensive but very nice. Decent ablutions. A large covered
lounge with cooker, toaster, and satellite TV!! Wont mention the Man Utd v
Villa game that I had the pleasure of watching yesterday. Managed to watch a
re-run of the England game from midweek this morning though. Watched some
news, still depressing.
So up to date. All is told. Oh, Hobbits! Apparently the Hogsback area was
the inspiration for Tolkien and The Hobbit. I can quite believe it. We will
be here for a couple of nights and hopefully the sun will shine tomorrow.
Was wet last night, and so far today, and cold, 15c. But makes a change from
40c I can tell you.
that's if I can remember what we have been doing for the last 2 weeks. The
weather today is wet and misty, we are up in the clouds, and not a Hobbit to
be seen anywhere!!
Our peaceful stay at the Wilderness NP came to an end on the Tuesday and we
set off in search of a new adventure. After making a stop at 2 of the bird
hides in the Wilderness NP, we made the scenic drive along to Knysna. The
bird hides were great and the Malachite hide lived up to its name as a wee
little Malachite Kingfisher sat perched on a branch just a few feet in front
of us. I am sure the poor thing must have thought it was a famous movie star
the way that the other people in the hide were snapping away with their
cameras. Why is it that in today's world of digital cameras some people feel
the need to make the camera produce a loud digitised shutter sound every
time they hit the big button? It's a bit like vegetarian sausages and bacon,
just cant get my head around it! Anyway, after a while the wee little bird
had posed and signed enough autographs and made for safety, don't blame it.
Knysna sadly is one of those towns that is selling its soul to the
development of 2nd homes and holiday accommodation and all the hangers on
that goes with it. The demand for waterfront or island property is pushing
prices up to crazy levels. A 3 or 4 bedroom house with a view of the lagoon
comes in at least the R3M mark. There must be plenty of money around
somewhere. We found the caravan park that we had planned to stay at, Monk's
Holiday Park (S34 02.303 E23 03.881), a nice spot at the edge of the lagoon,
set-up camp and then took a walk into town to see what was happening. Our
aim was the waterfront development but somehow we managed to get lost, so
after asking in a shop for directions we made it and found the hotspot of
the Knysna rich and famous. Well there was enough money sitting in the water
with all the yachts and motor cruisers. So to blend in we found a drinking
establishment, had a drink or two, and did a spot of people watching. Apart
from the odd tourist here and there it was a bit of a ghost town although I
am sure the place rocks at the height of the season.
Suitably relaxed it was back to camp for dinner and a quiet night. Yes well
it would have been a quiet night if not for the barking dogs and the
thumping music coming from one of the world's many brain dead with a sound
system fit for a night club shoe horned into the boot of their passion
wagon. Knysna may not be the hotspot of entertainment for the youth of today
but surely there must be more to life than sitting in a petrol station
forecourt broadcasting your 'fab' music to all. A second day in town was
enough for us to see all we needed and feeling a bit disappointed it was
again time to move on.
Heading eventually for Nature's Valley we stopped of at Plettenberg Bay for
coffee and a stroll on the sand. Plett is quite a sleepy place and if not
for the lure of seeing dolphins and whales it would probably nod off into a
coma. The big jet boats that take the punters out in search of the dolphins
get thrust out into the waves at speed from their trailers by a tractor and
return just as fast dry landing back onto the sand. We forgot that last time
we were at Plett we had been one of the punters, must be getting old, both
of us had forgotten until we saw it all happening. After a quick detour to
Keurboomstrand to see if the camp site there was any good, crap ablutions,
we arrived at Nature's Valley NP (S33 58.235 E23 33.828). A nice secluded
Sanparks site in the trees just inland from the sea. The site was very quiet
and we found a nice spot before heading to the beach. Again our memory was
jogged, yep been here before. What a lovely beach. Sand as far as the eye
can see, and hardly a soul around. With the weekend approaching whether it
would stay that way or not was another matter.
With the arrival of Friday the next day we realised that things were going
to get a lot busier. A huge marquee was being set-up for the arrival of a
church group and by evening the site was pretty busy. We had a great morning
on the beach soaking up the rays. The electric in camp had mysteriously gone
off in the morning and the rumour was that while setting up the marquee one
of the huge tent spikes that had been bashed into the ground had gone
through a cable, who knows. Didn't worry us.
Leaving the weekenders to it we moved onto the Storms River site (S34 01.416
E23 53.406) not too far along the coast in the Tsitsikama NP. We had wanted
to stay there, a great spot with tent pitches right on the rocks at the sea,
but the cost of it had put us off. Again one of Sanparks crazy pricing
schemes with combinations of tent or caravan pitches with or without power
or views. Eventually we decided to bite the bullet and stump up the cash. I
think it is probably the most expensive site in all of Sanparks network.
Only problem, what looked like an overland truck set-up next to us. As we
had arrived early in the day we just sat, read books, and enjoyed the view
that we had paid for. The people on the overland tour had been out scuba
diving somewhere and returned late afternoon and thankfully seemed a quiet
bunch. Well most of them were. Some chose to get very drunk and make a right
noise until late into the night. We weren't amused and neither were several
of the other people on the tour. Not the first time we had had the pleasure
of drunken overlanders on our travels and unfortunately probably not our
last! To top off a bad night, I had the pleasure of a cold shower in the
morning as there was no hot water in the men's ablution block! All part of
the fun when you are on the road, and at least for us it doesn't spoil our
trip as we have so much time, but for people just away for the weekend it
isn't great.
Not wishing to outstay our welcome, or rather not wanting to pay for another
expensive night, we were on the move again. With Jeffreys Bay in our sights,
the surfers paradise, we made our way along the N2. Taking a detour via
Kareedouw in search of a slower drive and the promise of scenic view and
tractors according to the sign post we took longer to get there. As for the
scenery, not the best, and not a tractor to be seen anywhere! We drove out
to Cape St Francis before hitting J Bay and found the surfers after passing
thru the town and its enormous residential areas. A nice spot to have lunch,
and watch young and old doing their stuff in the waves. Onto J Bay and
somewhere to stay for the night. The town, bland, the caravan park
expensive. Thankfully a bit further along at Kabeljous the caravan park (S34
00.840 E24 55.653) was cheap, very nice, and just off the beach.
We had been working towards our first forced booking on our trip, Addo
Elephant NP. The place seems to be maxed out all the time so advanced
booking was necessary. Heading to Port Elizabeth first to get food and fuel
we arrived at the park. Seeing that the fuel comes from Port Elizabeth you
would think it would be cheaper, wrong. Anyway, on our previous adventure
down this way we had made a day trip to Addo. Yes we actually remember that!
The reason, it had been bloody hot, over 40c. We had almost wilted away.
This time being closer to winter we hoped for a cooler time. On arriving at
the main rest camp (S33 26.642 E25 44.700) it was 39c in the shade, oh. The
wind was hot and so were we. The camp at Addo is very nice, big gravel
pitches as separated by hedges, very Caravan Club! A swim was needed and
thankfully the rest camp pool was very nice and unsurprisingly busy.
Tuesday morning arrived, so did some cooler weather, and we were up with the
larks at daybreak to get out into the park. We had a good morning drive, 2
male Lions, Elephants, plenty of different buck, Warthogs, and Jackals. Our
routine for the next two mornings at Addo would be much the same. Morning
drive, afternoon snooze. The game area is not huge and we had covered it all
in two mornings, even crawling along in 2nd gear. By the time we were
returning to base at around 11h00 the day trippers were filling the roads
out. With Elephants being the main draw of the park you would be unlucky not
to see any. Even if not out on a drive there is the huge waterhole back at
camp to sit and watch either by day or night as it is gently lit up. Sadly
there is always a down side to busy camp sites. People with music and people
with unhealthy obsessions for washing their 4x4 as it had a bit of dust on
it. Sue, unknown to me at the time, told one German couple to turn their
music down. They asked if she had a baby to which she said 'no, we come here
to get away from it all' and was told 'if you want to get away from it all
you should go to a hotel not a caravan park'. Sue pointed out that this was
actually a NP just in case they had missed the signs. Thursday morning was
really different, cold and misty. At one waterhole, Carol's Rest, the calls
of the Jackals looming out of the mist was really eerie, but fantastic.
The afternoon snoozes never really happened as we were franticly trying to
sort out accommodation for Easter. We eventually found somewhere. As with
several places we have tried to book in advance as we tour around they
require payment to confirm the booking. Not easy sometimes when the only
options are depositing money to a bank account, no banks around, or sending
credit card details via email, are they mad? We had heard of another camp at
Addo that offered camping, Mvubu up in the NW of the park. So we booked 2
nights there at the Addo reception. Pure inspiration. We left the main camp
on Friday and after a not too long but dusty drive arrived at Mvubu (S33
20.457 E25 21.623). Again the temp had soared to mid thirties. Now yet again
the Sanparks pricing gets weird. Addo Main Rest Camp with facilities and
electric, R130. Mvubu Camp with no electric and a single rustic shower and a
flush loo, R70. Thankfully they have not adopted the pricing schemes of
other African countries where a bush camp with nothing costs twice as much
as normal! What a great place. Middle of nowhere. Drive to the small town of
Kirkwood and head into the hills. Just us and nature. A nice viewing deck at
the river, no hippos sadly as they are up river at Darlington Lake, with the
expensive private lodge!
What did we do for our 2 nights there, nowt. Enjoyed. Saturday morning we
went for a walk. There might be the odd Leopard hiding somewhere in the
hills, we just saw Kudu, Warthog, and Bushbuck. It is amazing that in a
noisy 4x4 these animals seemed relaxed, on foot at quite a distance even
being quiet they get skittish. Later on Saturday we had company at the site
as 2 families turned up, we knew they were coming so that was ok. Thankfully
they were quiet although they did manage to take over the place.
It was a shame to leave there yesterday but we will be back sometime that's
for sure. Passing back thru the main Addo park we aimed for Grahamstown,
another of the places Sue wanted to see. Disappointment again. A nice old
town that has not been ruined but has changed, cheap shops and hardware
stores in the main squares of the town. Diesel, ouch, after a price hike
during the week. As for the caravan park, closed, being refurbished. Due to
open in a weeks time according to the security guard. Whether that is an
African week, i.e. month, year, next decade. So our only choice was to
continue to Hogsback up in the Amatola Mountains, and another of Sue's
places to see, gulp. We had booked into a place called 'Away with the
Fairies', no comments please, as from Monday night. It was a long drive and
I think the owners of the place are definitely 'Away with the Fairies'!!
Backpackers, no camping where we could park Mufasa using the roof top tent
even though we had asked on booking if we could. So to Swallowtails Estate
it was, more expensive but very nice. Decent ablutions. A large covered
lounge with cooker, toaster, and satellite TV!! Wont mention the Man Utd v
Villa game that I had the pleasure of watching yesterday. Managed to watch a
re-run of the England game from midweek this morning though. Watched some
news, still depressing.
So up to date. All is told. Oh, Hobbits! Apparently the Hogsback area was
the inspiration for Tolkien and The Hobbit. I can quite believe it. We will
be here for a couple of nights and hopefully the sun will shine tomorrow.
Was wet last night, and so far today, and cold, 15c. But makes a change from
40c I can tell you.
Thursday 2 April 2009
Urgent update from Addo NP .....
I must be getting too relaxed as no blog for over a week!! So I thought it
was about time to get another update on the blog. Then I thought again, beer
and braai time, tomorrow is another day! Hic.
was about time to get another update on the blog. Then I thought again, beer
and braai time, tomorrow is another day! Hic.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)