Now the trouble with having to book up for Easter is that you end up with
nights to fill before you get there. Easy? No! Our stay up at Hogsback was
delightful. I went for a hike one morning with 3 dogs from the campsite for
company. They follow you everywhere. Sue always tells me off for making
friends with dogs on sites. Once befriended they sit with you all the time
and quite often expect you to feed them. Hey, I cant help it, I am a sucker
for a sad face with a wagging tail. Anyway, on the hike I tried to lose them
at one point but they soon found me a few minutes later, well 2 of them. The
oldest obviously gave up the chase and headed home. They probably know the
hiking trails inside and out. By the time we had made it back to camp they
looked ready for another lap.
So on leaving Hogsback we had to find 2 nights somewhere before the long
weekend. Where to go? East London (S32 58.977 E27 55.146) was on route as I
needed to buy an oil filter from Toyota so that I could get Mufasa's engine
oil changed at some point. That achieved and with the supply box restocked
with food we had to locate a good site for the 2 nights. The first option at
Nahoon (S32 59.128 E27 56.881) was not great. A community site, run down,
collapsed tents and caravans, and strangely we decided to move on. Our next
hope, Gonubie. After eventually finding the site, again a municipality site
but not too bad, we chose a pitch and settled in (S32 56.127 E28 01.689).
The place was due to be packed over Easter but there was room for us for 2
nights. Some of the pitches were pretty much on top of each other, and the
ablutions were old but functional. As it turned out it was a good choice.
Nice beach in spitting distance, oil change done in the town at Gonubie
Mechanical Services, and we probably had the best pitch on site. We had two
very pleasant nights there and just chilled out.
It was quite a drive to Port St Johns (S31 37.527 E29 32.807) especially in
the rain. We had checked to see if they could fit us in a night early but
they were full up. All in all it turned out well with a wet drive as at
least we weren't set up in camp getting wet. It felt as if we were back in
real Africa. The rolling hills down from Mthatha, African villages
everywhere with their round huts.
Its just a shame that the driving skills here are a tad on the crap side.
Well to be honest, probably some of the worst you will experience anywhere
in the world. Red lights, stop signs, no overtaking signs, blind corners,
just there as annoyances for people who seem to need to get to their
destination the day before yesterday. Yes we may amble along and not be in a
rush but surely if you have at least an ounce of survival instinct for
yourself let alone anyone else on the road you would be a bit more cautious.
We passed one really bad accident, car and bus. People slow down for a good
look, body bags on show for all to see, then put the pedal to the metal
again to hurry along to the next accident, probably their own. Oh and just
in case you are wondering, this is everyone, of all colours, in any vehicle
from car to truck. Sigh, can't seem to get my head around it. End of rant.
The site just outside Port St Johns we had booked was Cremorne Estates (S31
35.898 E29 31.894). Nestled in the hills on the banks of the Mzimvubu River
about 5 or 6 km from the sea. There was a bit of a mess up on arrival as
they tried to put us on a pitch that didn't exist, no electric and no water.
We pointed out the error of their ways, and were then allocated a proper
spot, and a nice one at that. Well it was the day we arrived, Friday,
anyway! The weather stayed moist for the whole day but cleared up for the
rest of the weekend.
Saturday came, beautiful morning, we sat and read our books and gazed up at
the rocky hills. We spent some time trying to locate the large and noisy
Trumpeter Hornbills that hid themselves away in the tree canopy on the side
of the hills, but eventually got to see them, nice birds. Our peace and
quiet was shattered come the afternoon. A group arrived in two cars. Set up
camp just across from us, and then the fun started. Music cranking out from
the car stereo, getting louder and louder. I walked over and asked them to
turn it down a bit, and they did, no probs. As the day grew older, and they
got drunker the volume crept up again. Come early evening I paid them
another polite visit and got a mouthful back. So I set the management on
them. Boy that was like throwing petrol on a fire to put it out. The abuse
that was hurled at me for 'terrorising' them all day, hmmm, I left the
management to it. The music was quieter, and thankfully they passed into a
drunken coma not too late.
The following morning the nice family next to them with two young kids
decided to leave a day early, had enough of the drunken behaviour and the
language. Shame, what is it with some people. This family had complained to
the management several times about it but didn't get much help - were told
'this is Africa'. Thankfully the 'delightful' group left that day, only
staying one night. Oh and not being funny but they were a religious lot,
can't see it myself, and beers at 08h00 in the morning? Perhaps when I was
18, but this was adults with young kids of their own. Apparently this was
not the only incident that day as another couple had to be shown the door
after they started fighting with each other, again they were probably not
exactly sober. Thankfully after that we had a very nice two more quiet days,
soaking up the sun and reading. I don't think I have read so much for years.
After all of the excitement of the Easter weekend we needed a nice quiet
spot and a rest. It all worked out quite well. Sue's Dad had been in the
Drakensberg for the long weekend using some timeshare but had to leave on
the Tuesday. So we felt obliged to use up the remaining 3 nights of the
booking! So off to Underberg and the Castleburn Lake Resort (S29 45.082 E29
17.958). A nice one bedroom apartment, food in the fridge for us to use up,
including some delicious prawns! It is a trout fishing place with some
smallish dams and a large lake, all set in the foothills of the southern end
of the Drakensberg mountains. There were walks around the lake, tennis
courts, putt-putt, a 'golf course', and canoes on the lake. All of which we
used. Tennis was interesting with neither of us having held a racquet for
years. The weather was stunning. Blue blue clear skies during the day, clear
clear starry nights, and the trees were all in Autumn colours, beautiful.
Thankfully there was a log fire in the apartment to keep the chill off. Once
again life had dealt us a savage blow!!
We only had a short hop to our next location, further up into the hills and
the KZN Wildlife campsite at Garden Castle(S29 44.767 E29 12.460). A small
site, 10 pitches, no electricity, and basic ablutions. Only us and another
lovely old couple in their caravan. Bliss. Shame about the miserable rude
staff at the reception. I think we were putting them out by being there.
Anyway, the fantastic weather continued and we had two long hikes up into
the mountains. The first to Pillar Cave, and the second to Sleeping Beauty
Cave. The nights were the darkest we have experienced on the trip, the stars
FANTASTIC. It was a bit chilly at night, but we were snug up in the tent. No
annoyances, no noise, no idiots to cope with. Just chillllllll. Our luck was
definitely in with the weather. The 2nd night was stormy with thunderstorms,
well it was everywhere around us for a while, but only a couple of small
drops on us. Then the skies and the stars returned. The day we left it was
cloudy and misty, and was forecast to be set for the next few days with a
cold front passing through. We had had almost a week up in the Drakensberg
and no rain, miracle. With bad weather set for a few days it was good
fortune again as our next stop was the Amanzimtoti Princes (S30 02.337 E30
52.990), Sue's brother Roy and family. Many thanks to them for putting up
with us and a great week spent there! And now, to the present, another stoke
of luck, or great planning. Sue's dad, her brother Mike and family, and
another timeshare apartment down the coast at Margate (S30 51.807 E30
21.803). We have a week here before we hit the road again on our own in
Mufasa. Oh by the way he is having a break from us too. We are hoping that
he is still safely parked up in a hangar at Durban airport, Roy works there,
and not on a boat to China or somewhere!!
As to where we head from here, I don't know except north and back eventually
to Johannesburg. And then? Ah, we have been thinking of new plans, not firm
yet!
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