Off into Swaziland we go, well we hope that is where we will end up, looks a
bit cloud bound from where we are sitting in Barberton!
We had a great 3 nights in Chrissiemeer in our own private oak wood. The
water from the taps gradually became a lot less orange, obviously no one had
been camping for some time. Well probably not since the Bushcats were here
in August, thanks for pointing us to this great spot! A great spot to spend
time down at the lake checking out the birds, well that is if we did not
scare them off first, and then chilling in the wood reading and relaxing. We
could have stayed longer, we will be back.
So with Swaziland calling it was time on Friday to get closer with a stop
off at Barberton. We headed from Chrissiemeer on a great tar road up to
Carolina, not much to report but we filled Mufasa's belly. The we chugged
along via Badplass to Barberton. Our lovely sunny morning eventually
disappeared as we climbed up and over the Nelsberg Pass (at least I think
that is what it was called!). There was a very thick blanket covering it
which seemed to extend all the way to Barberton, and as far as we could see
on over the mountains to Swaziland. Our stop for the night was at the
Barberton Caravan Park (S25 47.110 E31 02.925). I guess many a year a ago it
was quite a nice caravan park, lovely grounds and trees but somewhat tired
ablutions, more than functional though. Our one night ended up being two
nights as Sue needed to do some washing despite the overcast and damp
weather. Things did not look much better when we upped camp and aimed for
the border Sunday morning. We knew there was a stunning drive ahead of us up
over the Saddleback Pass to the border into Swaziland at Bulembu (S25 56.896
E31 08.037). Being a steep climb Mufasa was mostly relegated to 2nd gear
which in the end didn't really matter as we could only see about 20 feet in
front of us in the heavy mist!! So much for the amazing view, another time
maybe.
The border formalities were as easy as could be. Well except for the men on
the SA side telling us that our vehicle was listed as stolen! Err, what?
Eventually after he got the whole story they said that sometime in Mufasa's
past he must have been stolen and recovered and this must be on his record
with the registration people. We did have visions of them impounding him and
making us walk home! Guess we need to check this out back in Joburg, nowt to
worry about they said!
So off into the cloudy misty murk of Swaziland it was. Bulembu is mostly a
ghost town since the asbestos mine there shut down many a year ago causing
an exodus of the 10,000 population of mine workers. It seems that things are
changing though with plans of creating a completely self sufficient village
there.
The road from Bulembu was 'back to Africa' style, bumpy but Mufasa (and his
driver) loved it! Eventually at Piggs Peak (S25 57.761 E31 14.731) we hit
tar, still in the murk though. Our planned stop of the Malolotja NR (S26
08.813 E31 08.304) was given a rain check, well it was cloudy misty and
drizzling! From the pictures we have seen it looks beautiful, and a walkers
haven, but we will have to come back another day either this trip or the
next. So instead we ploughed on slowly dropping in altitude and hit the
capital Mbabane (S26 19.514 E31 08.552). Well I say hit it we cruised past
it on our way to the next park on our list the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary
(S26 28.794 E31 11.662). A very pleasant camp, looks like they have been
doing some renovations as the campsite we are staying at has newly built
braai and the cane fences around other areas are getting a good licking of
creosote. The wildlife in the sanctuary is mostly buck and zebra but there
are hippos and crocs in the lake so care is needed if wandering in the dark.
Well for me anyway as Sue is usually tucked up well before then!! The
campsite was pretty quiet for the first night but suddenly on the second day
it was invaded. Thirteen rental motorhomes and their Dutch inhabitants on a
umpteen week tour of South Africa. Our only complaint, a lot of the men seem
to live around camp in their Speedos with overhanging bellies, nice!! One
their first night they were obviously due to eat dinner up at the
restaurant. We knew this as at about 18h00 their leader rang his bell loudly
to alert the group that it was time. Some of the group were already dressed
and ready others were frantically running around, wine boxes in hand, trying
to catch up and not make the commandant have to ring his bell a second time!
We tried not to snigger as we looked on, well it would be rude to miss the
show.
The one strange thing here, the drink rules. There is a big sign next to the
entrance gate, along with all the other many rules and regulations, stating
that as the camp is a licensed premises only alcohol bought at the camp can
be consumed! Make up your own mind on why, although prices are quite
reasonable. Needless to say I don't think the rule is fully obeyed, and
haven't seen an alcohol police yet?
There are plenty of activities to keep the willing busy, with walking, horse
riding, mountain biking, game drives, and quad biking. We did the 2.5 hour
self guided walk this morning. Nice but not too much to see, except a
multitude of White Fronted Bee-eaters ducking in and out of their nests in
the mud bank, oh and pretty hot too. A cool dip in the not so clear
swimming pool was just the ticket to wash the sweat and dirt off!
We have been happily camped here for 3 nights so far but will head to the
Malkerns Valley next door tomorrow to see the Swazi candles, either camping
there if we can find somewhere or perhaps coming back here if not.
Oh, we decided to come back for another night, our 4th. Then as we had it in
our mind to head off the next day another 'overland' couple, John and Karen
from Denmark, arrived and we chatted till late that night, Sue didn't get to
bed until almost 23h00!! We also spent the following morning chatting,
drinking coffee, and before we knew it lunch time had crept up and we
decided to stay one more night as did they.
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