Namibia, Thailand, Botswana, South and Central America ... Underberg

All sounds very grand doesn't it. Now that the world cup is behind us it is
time to make plans for where to go and what to do, well we can't sit around
with our feet up all the time!

The plan, a few months ago, was to visit Namibia for 2 or 3 months, then
back to SA as we have some friends visiting from the UK for 4 weeks. Then
the usual problem time of summer here over December and January was to be
filled perhaps with a trip to Thailand and the far east. Back on African
shores we would then head to Botswana for a month or two before a possible
trip to South and Central America late in 2011 for many a month. Good plan
eh? Well it was for a while at least.

Things kind of changed a bit recently. On our recent trip to the Drakensberg
and the coast we happened to pass through the town of Underberg, not our
first visit. The area around is just like England, rolling pastures,
beautiful trees, tall mountains on the skyline. OK, so the mountain bit is
kind of different, but the whole area feels like 'little England'. We love
it. Underberg itself is not exactly picture postcard stuff but more than
pleasant enough. So as you do on passing thru such places you get drawn to
the local estate agents, just to see what is around and how much things go
for.

There were a couple of places that looked interesting, but we had to move on
to get down to the coast. Anyway, we could come back this way on route to
Joburg. So off we drove. About 20km down the road we decided to about turn
and take a better look as we were in the area, the coast could wait a bit.
The kind unsuspecting estate agent, Faye, showed us a few places in the
town. All very different, but the one place that got our attention was some
'staff quarters' on a fair sized plot of land. The property is just over
2000m2, the third part of a subdivision of a large property, and has a good
fairly private garden. The 'staff quarters' are small, 9.5m x 6m, but plenty
of scope for converting to a small home. All very interesting. However we
had to get going, but took some details to ponder over while down by the
sea.

Ten days later we were back in Underberg. We had done plenty of pondering,
drawing up floor plans of how we could make a home out of the 'staff
quarters'. It was time for another look, in the rain this time. Yes, very
interesting indeed. We stayed the night in Himeville just up the road in a
B&B, too cold and wet to camp. In the morning, yep another look at the
property, and finally our farewells and back up to Joburg. I even sacrificed
seeing the opening game of the World Cup as we only made it back in the
evening!!

Time to consider options, ponder some more, get answers to some questions,
decide what our plans were. This June it is 5 years on the road for us, yep
5 years of no work. I know we have had some down time recently but even then
we are living out of suitcases between family. So a new plan formed. How
about some real time off the big travels. Have a project, and SA is a good
place for a project like this, couldn't afford to do it in the UK!! There is
plenty to see and do in the Drakensberg, walking, mountain biking, Lesotho
on the doorstep, and it makes a good base for more local one or two week
excursions.

So, yep, we took the plunge, we made an offer. After a counter offer by the
owners, we had agreed to buy. Offers are legally binding here. That was all
a few weeks back. Now we are hopefully only two weeks or so from the
transfer going through. All exciting, and a bit daunting. An architect is
involved now to help with the design and plans. A builder will hopefully
soon be lined up to get start on the works. Fun, fun, fun. Spend, spend,
spend!

So what does the place look like? Have a look here
http://picasaweb.google.com/wooliesonline/poloway to see.

Watch this space for what happens next!

A step back in time ...

I think I must be losing my mind, I am sure I had posted a blog entry for the time down at the coast. Well it obviously never happened, the blog that is not the coast.

So lets keep this brief and to the point. Went to coast then came back to Joburg.

The longer version for anyone interested goes a bit like this.

After some piece and tranquillity in the Drakensberg it was back to civilisation with a thump. Well if you can call the coast civilisation!! A bit sleepy in places, but bustling, and noisy in others. Our first port of call would be Ballito to meet up with Mike Sally and James for a night before heading off to the week long stay at the La Lucia Sands in Umhlanga, the holiday destination.

What can I say about La Lucia Sands, nice location, handy for the beach and the bustling town centre of Umhlanga, err that’s it. It was pleasant enough, but a bit dark and old inside. All was well until the management decided to do maintenance on the water pipes, idiots. We ended up with no water most of our 3rd day there, so no baths showers or toilets to use, then boiling hot water out of the cold taps at one point! Still no water the next day, no idea of when there might be, not funny. Even Fawlty Towers would have been an improvement!! Thankfully RCI, the timeshare management company, were very helpful, unlike the management at La Lucia Sands, and relocated us to what turned out to be a real boon.

Our new home for the remainder of our stay was just 15 minutes up the coast at Umdloti, a much quieter spot, and a bright and airy apartment at the Perna Perna resort. We had stunning views of the sea and all the ships bobbing around, plenty or room to swing several large cats, but only one parking spot. Kind of a problem as at that point we had 3 cars to park! Thankfully being a quiet time we managed to get a spot to fit Mufasa, and Sally’s Mum who was visiting for the weekend had to park on the road for a couple of nights.

Umhlanga had its plus points but Umdloti was just heaven. The ships out at sea waiting for entry to Durban were lit up like Christmas trees at night, and the surfing dolphins we could see from the balcony were just stunning. Oh and the weather although not hot was pleasantly warm, clear skies, and sunshine.

The other bit of luck with being relocated was we ended up with 3 extra nights if we needed them. After Mike and Co departed back for Joburg on the Tuesday morning Sue and I stretched out for a couple more nights. Sadly the weather turned and we had some rain, but the ships and dolphins kept us company!

Finally dragging ourselves away from the peace at the coast it was time to head back north towards Joburg, with a slight detour though, via Underberg again. Why? Well, for those who do not already know that will be in the next blog entry.

The Berg, Bushman's Nek, and Highover

Well you can't ask more from the weather than we have had during our time in the Berg. Blue skies, sunshine, cold at night but snug in the tent.

After 6 fab days at Royal Natal NP relaxing and walking it was time for a change and on down to the southern Berg and a timeshare apartment at Bushman's Nek (S29 50.945 E29 14.037), not far from the town of Underberg, for a mid week break. What a drive it was. Mostly on dirt roads, and totally stunning scenery. We say it to ourselves all the time that the native Africans have some of the best views that money can buy where they live out in the sticks. Why they would want to find a 'better life' in the big city is beyond me!

The resort at Bushman's Nek couldn't be described as one of the most exciting places we have stayed, but it was more than ok. We were only in a small studio apartment but with all mod cons and satellite tv for an out of season special that cost barely more than we would pay camping, who could complain!

What did we do for 4 nights there? Sleep, eat, read, watch the odd movie on tv, eat and sleep. There were great views of the Berg from the grounds around the pool area but with some construction going on we just put feet up back at the room.

Our stay was not without its problems though. We tried another braai with the rubbish wood we had left from the hopeless braai at Royal Natal, hopeless again! We also had some dvds to watch on the laptop, not easy when my aging computer wants to crash every now and then! Worse still the power pack decided to die too. Thankfully we can still run it on 12v in the truck if needed for now. Going to have to buy a new one sooner or later, sigh.

From Bushman's Nek it was into the unknown at Highover Wildlife Sanctuary (S29 54.907 E30 05.700) east of Underberg towards Richmond. The last part of the drive was a steep decent down to the Mkomazi river that Highover sits on. Sadly with all the burning that was going on the view wasn't half of what it could have been. What a 3 nights we had. The only ones in the campsite with stunning views of the steep rocky hills around us. Still clear blue skies and warm sunshine, cold evenings and nights, but with plenty of free firewood available we had great fires to keep us warm. The land that the owners have is vast. The campsite is big enough on its own, but there are also twenty odd beautiful bungalows too. All set beside the free running river. Apart from the the odd glitch with the donkey boilers heating the showers we would recommend it without even thinking.

All good things have to come to an and and with a week or so down at the coast as the next stop with family we vowed to return one day.

Quick, head for the hills!

Now where else would one go with winter looming and the need to keep warm? Obviously up into the mountains!

After the heat of Kruger getting back to Joburg was refreshingly cool, or cold as some might say. A couple of weeks gave us time to catch up on a few things not to mention the washing and a nice hot bath! Eventually the distant mountains beckoned and it was time to set off again.

The closest point to reach would be the Royal Natal park and a return visit to Mahai campsite. Oh and not forgetting a visit to the truck stop at Harrismith to fill the tanks with cheap diesel, R8.08 as opposed to R8.24 the cheapest we could find back in Joburg.

How things change in just a couple of months since our last visit. We were greeted with a clear sky and beautiful views of the mountains and the Amphitheatre. Arriving near reception closing time we had a silly conversation with the guy on the gate to the park. It was only just 16h00 with 30 minutes till reception would shut. We asked what time reception closed and he said 16h30. Ah plenty of time we said. He seemed completely unsure of the time even when he checked our clock and told us to go straight to the campsite and pay in the morning as the office would be shut. Leaving him behind in his own little world we found reception open and were all paid up with 15 minutes to spare. Perhaps the park should buy the gate man a new clock or at least show him how to use one.

As hoped the campsite was almost empty, well until the weekend probably. The first night was cool and the temp dropped to 11c, no problem. The second night it dropped to 6c at a steady rate as soon as the sun was gone. We were fed, washed up, and in bed by about 18h30! Up in the tent we are fine. Well I am, Sue would wear all the clothes she has if she could and still be cold! The 3rd night was also cold but so far no icy wind to cope with, but I am sure that will come.

Last night we had a braai, well sort of. The wood we made the fire with looked good, well until we made charcoal out of it. It was a bugger to get going but gave no usefull coals. Sue ended up cooking the chicken kebabs in the frying pan and I eventually got the wors cooked next to heat of the flames from some newly lit wood. Oh what fun, ironically the thing that got the fire going best was all the fat dripping from the wors. They should soak the wood in it or make fire lighter out of the stuff!

The hiking here is good with many a destination to choose from. We have been good, yesterday and today been out for a 8 or 9km hike up in the lower hills. I think that tomorrow will be a day of rest, no point in over doing it. The sky has been blue and clear since our arrival, but a few clouds are around this afternoon. Would be nice if it stayed fair, cold nights are fine provided we get warned thru in the day. Keeps the solar and fridge happy too!

Today we paid for 3 more nights as we like it here. As to whether we will still be saying that come Monday after the place goes mad over the weekend, fingers crossed!

Some pics from the Kruger

A few pics from the park ...

http://picasaweb.google.com/wooliesonline/Kruger2010

Life after the Kruger

Our plan, well we did not really have one. So we decided to stop a night at Forever Resorts Swadini on the north eastern side of the Blyde River Canyon. It was ok, huge, not too busy, and nice ablutions, well I should think so for the price!

Today we did the tourist things and checked out the Blyde Canyon, and the other views in the area like Wonder View and God's Window. Now explain. Wonder View free. God's Window a small charge of R5 per vehicle. They are about 200m apart and look over the same view! Needless to say which one we chose!

Now it is back to Joburg. On the N12 as I write this. It has been a long day so far, 450km behind us 120km odd to go. Bloody windy, but sunny. Poor Mufasa has had a hard day with all the steep climbs he has done today. Seems like we have been going uphill all day!

Back in the big city a week or so to get an oil change and do some washing and shopping. Then probably down to the Drakensberg for a couple of weeks if it is not too cold!

Kruger - Tsendze, the end of the road

What a pleasure it always is to get back to Tsendze and the warm welcome of the staff there. However we knew that it meant our last 3 nights in the park.

It started well though. Halfway from Shingwedzi we had a sighting of 4 Lions. Mum and her 3 little ones. Well hidden about 10m from the road. She was sitting out the warm part of the day, the cubs were messing around. That would be our last Lion spot.

Camp was quiet on arriving Friday lunchtime and got busy Saturday night. Sunday it was quieter again. As the end was nigh we made an effort to get out of camp. Long game drives in the morning and a short drive in the evenings to watch the sun go down over the Tsendze river with a cool beer and some nuts.

Our favorite drive which we did Saturday and Sunday mornings was east of camp to the grassy plains at the Tihongoyeni waterhole on the S143 loop. The grass was very long this year and the masses of Zebra loved it. They were quite happy sharing their spot with the Wildebeest and Tsessebe. Oh and us. A perfect place for morning coffee and rusks, and the odd hundred photos!

There were plenty of young Zebra around, and the adults were playing their own games! It is great just to sit there and watch and listen. Best relaxation therapy available. We even had a sighting of 3 Side Striped Jackals, the rarer cousin of the Black Backed. Many an Elephant around too. Lone bulls and large herds. One herd had some very small ones to look out for. Their older sisters were very protective and we gave them plenty of space and only watched for a couple of minutes.

Before we knew it Monday morning had arrived and it was time for our 24 night visit to the park to come to an end. The drive out to the Phalaborwa gate was nice, quiet, but had its moments. We came across an old couple in their broken down pickup and had to notify the staff at the gate to rescue them. We also came across a throng of Vultures hacking away at an Impala carcass. What a sight, what a smell!

Then it was all over. Thru the gate and back to civilisation, or the zoo outside the park!

Kruger - Shingwedzi, the 2nd half

Its quite amazing to think that the much anticipated or dreaded long weekend is behind us. Just the looming month of May and pensioner concession time. Not a camping spot will be found anywhere for a month!

I think we must have seen our allowed animal quota in the first few days in the park. Even the birds seemed to have gone into hiding. The drive back to Shingwedzi was nice but uneventful. The camp was fairly quiet, but the warm weather had returned. Up in the mid thirties during the day and cooler come evening time, well if 28c at 18h00 can be described as cooler!

Plenty of lion activity in the area if all the evening and morning roaring was an indication. However none that we saw, except a lone male on leaving Shingwedzi on the drive to Tsendze. Also no sight or sound of the Giant Eagle Owls, shame.

We did however get our dose of excitement. Sitting mid afternoon relaxing, the birds started to chirp just next to us. Sue was suddenly up, 'snake!'. It appeared around the base of the tree where we were sat and proceed to hide under the pile of wood I had got out for the evening braai. It wasn't huge, perhaps 45cm long, but we later identified it as a young Mozambican Spitting Cobra! It may have been half its adult size but its spitting venom would still pack a mighty punch. They can spit up to 2.5m! I persuaded it to move on and made sure it was well away from us before I stopped following it.

The next day Sue came rushing back from the ablutions, she had seen the snake again. A bit different this time as it was in the process of swallowing a small bat! It would be like me trying to swallow a badger in one go! Well it eventually did, one big lump in it's belly. We left it to find somewhere quiet to sleep it off.

The pool at camp was a just the place to be late morning or early afternoon. Cold, but refreshing! We had to make use of it as no such luxury would be awaiting us back at Tsendze, just the option of a cold shower if needed.

As mentioned we had a brief glimpe of a male Lion on leaving the camp, but well past halfway to Tsendze we had a better sighting!

Kruger - Punda Maria and the long weekend

We knew full well what we were heading into. A long weekend up at Punda. A
full campsite for 3 or 4 nights. How bad could it be?

The drive up to Punda (S22.69323 E31.01762) was only 70km or so, so not far.
The game viewing along the way, nice, some birds, but nothing to shout
about. Well apart from the Leopard! It was only a brief crossing of paths
but exciting none the less. We had stopped as we do most of the time to
check out a bird in a tree. This one happened to be an Open Billed Stork
perched high up on top of an acacia. Having observed him, I turned the
ignition to get Mufasa growling again, looked up, and before we had moved a
few feet stopped as there was a cat in the road ahead wandering towards us.
Binoculars up, 'LEOPARD'! Beautiful animal. Sadly it was only in view for 10
seconds or so before it slinked off into the grass next to a small river. We
drove up not in much hope of spotting it again, and we didn't. They are hard
enough to see off the road when the grass is dead and low, but in these lush
times, no chance!

As we had set off from Shingwedzi first thing we arrived at Punda not long
after 09h00 and were delighted to find that the campsite was almost empty so
we had plenty of places to choose from. It was a no brainer really. Our
favourite spot is in the first corner by the fence under some trees, but
this was taken. So next to it in the open would do us just fine, the spot we
had camped on when we arrived from Mozambique with a rush that last day of
our trip up thru Africa in 2008.

Friday night was not too hectic but Saturday, Sunday, and Monday were full
full full. The only thing that was a real surprise was the weather. It had
been pretty warm still during the days up until we arrived at Punda. Friday
was cooler and cloudy. Saturday was cold, it drizzled all day, only got up
to 16C or sommit like that. Sue had 2 fleeces and long sleeved t-shirt on
during the day, and I had on thick socks and hiking boots to keep my feet
warm and dry. Sunday was better and we had a great long drive up to the
Pafuri picnic spot (S22.42312 E31.24746) and then along to Crook's Corner
(S22.42565 E31.30700) at the confluence of the mighty Limpopo river with the
Luvuvhu River. We saw a large herd of Elephant munching their way thru the
trees, several good bird spots, and plenty of lovely Nyala, not to mention a
couple of dozing Lions. Monday was a day of rest again, cold, bit of
drizzle, and some afternoon sun. Perfect feet up and read a book day, yep
another one.

The family group next to us in 'our' corner spot were very nice, all 14 of
them, from Ouma and Oupa down to their grandchildren. One of the families
lived at Punda for a while when the husband worked there as a ranger and
trail guide. They were living at Punda during the great floods of 2000, with
a few stories to tell now. Thanks to them we had a new animal spot one
evening, a Large Spotted Genet, nipping in and out of the grass just outside
the fence, too cute. Overall the weekend was very pleasant indeed. We knew
it would be busy, and it was. We knew that at times it would be noisy, and
it was. But everyone was friendly, although I think we might have probably
been the only non native Afrikaans speakers there! I sometime feel like I am
in a foreign country!

After Punda, only another 6 nights left in the park. Can't be greedy now,
but once you are here and settled in it is just a way of life.
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18:32:00

Kruger - Shingwedzi the first installment

Now we knew that our first visit would be the lull before the storm of the oncoming long holiday weekend, but we were proved somewhat wrong!

Of the larger camps in the park I would say that Shingwedzi (S23 06.580 E31 25.928) is probably our favorite. The campsite is large and fairly open but there are plenty of trees and the pool although dated is large and welcoming. We found a nice spot in amongst some Mopani trees which would offer shade and hopefully some protection from any heavy dew. As it turned out that first night, dew was the least of our worries!

Sue woke me not long after midnight as it seemed that a thunderstorm was approaching and we needed to close the end flap of the tent to keep the rain off. Well that we did and thank God we had. Soon after, the mother of all storms hit! We had to close every flap down, and listen to the gates of hell open outside. It hurled it down. The gusts of wind were scary. But we had faith in the tent, well we hoped we did! For nearly an hour the storm lashed away, and it rained another hour after that until the night was still again. All the while we had to keep pushing the tent up over the ladder to drain the swimming pool that kept creating itself there. At one point in the worst of it I had to hang down on the ladder to rescue our towels that we had hung out to dry. By torch light we could only see water all around us, but at least we were above it, not those in ground tents!

For some reason come morning we felt a bit sleepy! With the ground being quite sandy most of the rain had drained off. We found out later that over 90mm had dropped on the area in that hour or two. A few trees in the rest camp did not survive the wrath of the storm but thankfully none around us.

The remainer of our stay was very quiet in comparison. Lions were to be heard each evening but not seen by day. The cute Pearl Spotted Owls also paid a visit but no Giant Eagle Owls were heard or seen. All we did know was that our looming stay up at Punda Maria from Friday to Tuesday would be another experience altogether!